Susanne's Impressions of Israel - our final entry

WOW! The land of Israel. What a place! I cried when our plane landed. I felt like I was home after a long hiatus, even though I’d only heard or read about Israel in books or newspapers. I felt immediately connected to Israel, a place I’d never been. It was a very strange feeling. I had always been too afraid to go. The worst news stories replayed themselves over and over in my head - about going into a war zone, getting blown up in a mall or on a bus or while sipping coffee at a cafe. And there I was at the Tel Aviv airport, with a klezmir band playing outside baggage claim greeting the arriving Maccabiah participants. What a welcome.

There is nothing like experiencing Israel. As I walked the streets of Jerusalem I felt as though I arrived at the center of the world, where the world’s religions and a kaleidoscope of cultures, languages, and history of, well, history come together so colorfully. Everywhere I looked there was someone that appeared to be a family member. Wait, is that my brother? That looks like my cousin! Wait – there’s me! Never had I seen so many Jews in the streets before. Well, maybe in Manhattan. And a mezuzah on every door post! And Shabbat elevators in hotels! And kosher food and kosher restaurants and Jews, Jews and more Jews everywhere I looked in every job not just as lawyers or doctors or professors but café owners and taxi drivers and bell boys and yes of course, male and female soldiers.

The Maccabiah mission was a high class experience. Breakfast buffets of Mediterranean delights daily. Guest speakers on politics and a B’nai Mitzvah ceremony for all those of age who were interested in experiencing the rite of passage as we overlooked the Old City of Jerusalem. There were gala dinners featuring more Mediterranean delights, live music and dancing in the round. One evening at sunset a klezmir band accompanied our group as we sang through the streets of the Old City of Jerusalem on our way to the Tower of David evening light show. Walking tours and bus tours and DVD tours of our experiences so far greeted us in between cocktail hours, Shabbat dinners, Havdallah service, meet and greets and the Maccabiah informational tables providing us with lists of activities and advice on what and where and how and why in Israel.

The wailing wall, with our schmatas covering our shoulders. I touched the wall, with my fingertips, pressed in with my whole hands and then my forehead, said a prayer, then stuck a written prayer in a crevice with all the others, a deed I promised to a friend. This while Greg was swept up in the pre-Shabbat wave of dancing and chanting on the men’s side, a beautiful sound that transported me to another place – but wait, I was already there, in the midst of where I most needed to be at that moment, erev Shabbat in Jerusalem.

Escorted by armed guards through the Arab market after our underground tour of excavated ancient city walls, exploring the Church of the Sepulcher where we felt the marble where Jesus was laid after crucifixion, admiring the Dome of the Rock from afar - too far – each sight and experience more inspiring than the last. The sense of awe and wonder and intense emotions that whirled in the cauldron inside me was further agitated by my confusion regarding the layers of politics, regional policies on natural resources, economics, and Arab-Israeli relations.

And the games, yes the games, over 60 countries and 7,000 plus athletes, spectators, Mission participants, all gathering in Israel to support one another and represent their country as Jews. A maddening schedule of daily competition, gearing up, stretching and schlepping and exchanging of money and where to find a sandwich and another Goldstar please and did she win? and how do you text on this phone? a Bedouin camel ride stop the meter you don’t understand this is not where we want to be wow am I schvitzing stomp stomp on the washing in the bathtub and thump thump went the music at the discotheque on the beach below our hotel at 2AM day after day and 6AM wake up! wake up! another cup of coffee please - taxi!!

Tel Aviv beaches stretching on and on, in one direction toward the charming port of Jaffa and in the other to the converted port now housing shopping and restaurants, just beyond the walled off beach where women sunbathe certain days and men on others. Otherwise religious Jews are fully clothed baking in the hot sun alongside boys in board shorts and bikini clad girls playing paddle ball a game that is such an obsession that enjoying the beach has become a lesson in dodge ball.

Polluted Med Sea, clear blue Red Sea, and miraculous Dead Sea, sweltering Masada, where I heard the voices of the Jews that were and of King Herod himself, where I steamed in the ancient Turkish bath and was killed by the hands of my own family. The dust settled on my sweaty skin, ancient dust which permanently filled my pores no matter how hard I scrubbed to remind me never to forget. And then Yad VaShem, a stake through the heart, a mesmerizing experience of a horrific past, memories of those that were, with the hope that it would never again happen, knowing full well that it has in other ways, to other people, in other parts of the world.

Gold Medal for Rachel and the Junior US Squash Girls Team! Mazel Tov! And an excellent showing for the US Men’s, 4th in team and Greg 4th in individual competition. And then goodbyes to the Mexicans and the Brits, Brazilians and South Africans, Scottish and Argentineans, the Israelis and all the families and organizers at the squash medal ceremony. Held in the backyard of a private home, the setting couldn’t have been more beautiful, the people more friendly, the evening more muggy and the mosquitoes any happier.

Go to Jordan, specifically Petra. There is nothing more to say. We visited 3 days – each day the view from the siq to the monastery took my breath away. Lots of walking, or opt for the donkey or camel rides. The Jordanians are welcoming and they sure could use the dinars. Remember to watch the sunset over Petra, smoke the hubbly-bubbly and drink Arak.

Israel - another world, a spiritual world, filled with contradictions and adversity. Jewish athletes from all over, coming together to celebrate our history and culture, rejoicing in our continued survival. It is a place I was afraid to visit and hated to leave. Until we meet again.

The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan

First, a recap of the bronze medal match. Since Rach was finished we picked her up and we all were there to cheer Greg on at his final match of the Maccabiah games. Greg played truly inspiring squash vs an Israeli triathlete/marathoner/machine and lost 3-1. There was quite a group of onlookers as the two battled it out for the bronze, Greg so close in his game scores he could feel the weight of the medal around his neck but alas unable to grasp it. The US over 45 team came in 4th and Greg did as well. We are very proud of him and both he and Rach got many kudos for inspiring squash play and amicability on and off court.

Entering another world, we are now in Jordan. Arrived yesterday afternoon to the exquisitely located Marriott Petra, overlooking the desert mountains surrounding the ancient city of Petra and Wadi Musa, the village that caters to tourists and locals alike. Border crossing much easier than any of us expected.
Flew to Eilat on a commuter then taxied to the border, paid an Israeli exit tax, exchanged shekels for dinars and walked to the other side, with posters of the deceased King Hussein and the new king of Jordan, his son, welcoming us. We turned our passports over for the visas and awaited their return in the shade at the shop. It was very easy and peaceful, and other than the uneasiness any armed guards would provoke, non-threatening. The taxi sent from the hotel was a bit challenged to fit all of our luggage, however we made the fit and napped and enjoyed the desert view along the 2 hour air conditioned road trip. Our driver stopped to buy us a welcome drink at a gas station and we rec'd another upon arrival at our hotel. The girls have enjoyed Fanta, lemon coke, and fresh juices, and Greg and I the local Petra beer (8%!!) and myself the Arak, a pastis-like anise aperatif.

The staff at the Marriott have been amazing, catering to our every need and answering all questions, lining us up with a wonderful taxi driver who seems to be available to us as needed and hooking us up with a great English-speaking tour guide,Ahmed, for our 3 hour guided tour to Petra - we were there all of 5 hours today. It is the most amazing place we have ever encountered. The combination of natural beauty in the midst of the sandy, mountainous desert with the architecture influenced by Nabatean and Greco-Roman cultures over milleniums is mind-boggling.

We bought a 2-day ticket in case we choose to explore more tomorrow. Getting to Petra at 7:30am this morning made the day more enjoyable, with a slight breeze and morning sun. There are no clouds in the sky and a very hot sun, so starting early was a must for us, although groups were pouring in as we left. There are shops to buy snacks and trinkets and toilets along the way, and a number of locals wanting to sell us camel, donkey, horse, or carriage rides as the day goes on and the walk can get laborious.

Our taxi driver's brother at the Indiana Jones snack shop arranged for our pick up and we have just returned from lunch and a swim at the Marriott pool. They have a Turkish Bath here that Greg will enjoy shortly. Tonight we may meet up w/a few of the squash master players for dinner and then tomorrow, off to Petra, check out and taxi back to the border for an overnight in Eilat and then home. Can't believe our trip is coming to a close. Rachel remarked at how long it's been since she's been at home, a week longer then us, and is excited to sleep in her own bed again, and of course, I look forward to a washing machine.

Down, but not out......

Greg lost to the #1 seed from the UK in his semi-final match and now gets to play for the bronze medal this afternoon against the Israeli Maccabiah gold medal winner from 4 years ago and seeded #2 in the individual draw. This should be an exciting match for sure.

Rachel has completed her squash out of the medal round and had the match of her life yesterday against the Israeli #2. Rachel lost to her in the seeding rounds last week, 3-1, but yesterday, we were on pins and needles as Rachel lost the first game, won the second and third games, lost the fourth, and was down 6-1 in the fifth game and at one point, 8-3. She steadied her game with good rails and no errors to bring the game to 9-7 and then had two spectacular kill shots up front to even it at 9-9. An unforced error gave match ball to her opponent, who then made her own error, for 10-10. Long rallies ending in unforced errors made it 11-11 and then Rachel had some great crosscourt length forcing two errors by her opponent which gave Rachel the game win 13-11 and the match!! Greg coached the match and was exhausted. Rachel was overjoyed playing at the #4 position to have beaten the #2 Israeli. Her improvement over the last two weeks was clearly apparent.

Last night we went to Jaffa, which is known as the oldest city in the world and just a 10 minute cab ride south of Tel Aviv. The city was a bustling Palestinian Arab city until 1948 when the Palestinians decided to bomb the Jews in Tel Aviv - as you can imagine this did not go over too well, and most of the Palestinians left after it was incorporated as part of Tel Aviv. There are still some in the area who co-exist peacefully. It is a beautiful mix of old and new with noticeably different architecture with moorish influence and narrow cobbled lanes in the oldest part of the city. Such a contrast from Tel Aviv, yet so close!!




Today is our last full day in Tel Aviv which ends in a party for all squash players hosted by a South African who has lived in Israel for 20 years. Rachel will then sleep with us at our hotel and we will check out and fly to Eilat, then cross the border into Jordan and head to Petra - it should be an adventurous day for sure!

Susanne is so excited to be together as a family again. Rachel ended up connecting to many of the juniors, most of whom were senior to her, and in the end had many of her own adventures. Bex has been wonderful company to Susanne, although I think she is ready to spend time with Rach and is looking forward to seeing her friends soon.


Stay tuned for more to come!

Still in it!!

Greg has his semi-final match this morning against the #1 seed from the UK, David Lazarus - a win would assure him a silver or gold medal - a loss a chance for a bronze if he were to win the match between the loser of the other semi-final match. It will be extremely tough as all remaining players are national or pan-am champions. We wish him the best of luck!

Yesterday Rachel had the day off from play so we picked her up to cheer on Greg with us. He won his match 3-0 and we were free to enjoy lunch as a family at the old port of Tel Aviv that has been converted into shopping and restaurants. We decided to try a fish restaurant recommended to us and ordered the local sea bream, a trout-like fish that was delicious. The meal started with a sampling of salads, 16 to be exact, that come with each main course. After lunch Greg and Bex walked back to the hotel for a nap and Rach and I fast-walked thru some shopping areas of Tel Aviv and then back via the beach, a 3 mile excursion that left my legs sore and both of us dripping with sweat.

By the end of the afternoon of schvitzing my swearing-off of Tel Aviv taxis (too many stories to tell as to why) wore off and I was ready to jump into a cab to the Masters Squash dinner hosted by Bank HaPaolim, a sponsor of the games. Speeches of thanx and a few off color jokes by some senior players were shared then a meal and off again to take Rach back to her team. There is so much to see and do and the competitors don't get much free time to enjoy. I guess it means we'll just have to come back again. I think Bex and I have it grand, watching squash now and then and enjoying a more leisurely pace of exploring, although we do miss sharing our free time here with our family athletes.

I've been told today is Rach's last day of competition and we think Greg has 1 more. Then Rach has a tour (day training w/the Israeli Army?) and party with the Juniors and we end with a ceremony and dinner all together, if I'm not mistaken, after which Rach finally joins us for good and we fly to Petra via Eilat. Only 1 more day to hang laundry on the balcony to dry. Yippee!

Not sure what Bex and I will do today, maybe back to Nechalat Benyamin to shop for Rach and her friends back home as she hasn't had the free time on the market days to do that and then possibly catching her afternoon match. Greg will most likely cheer Rach on after his match and join us for dinner back in Tel Aviv.

Off for a coffee and a workout. We have finally made the adjustment to Tel Aviv time, to bed at midnight and sleeping in, although our late is still not their late. We'll keep you posted on competition results. Keep your fingers crossed!

A Gold Medal!!!

Results of the Team squash events are in!! The Junior USA girls squash team bested Israel and Great Britain to win the gold - 6 matches were played and Rachel played #4 on the team and won her match. Matches were tied at 3 each, but the USA won more games to secure the gold. Rachel then spent Friday night with us and proudly walked around with her gold medal around her neck!!

The USA Masters 45+ mens team did not fare as well. In fact, a younger Israel team was put into the draw under protest, and they ended up winning the gold - the protest was ignored, unfortunately, otherwise we would have had the bronze. The UK got the silver and Mexico was awarded the bronze.


Individual draw matches begin Sunday AM - Greg is seeded #4 out of 16. The players younger than 45 will now have their own draw thankfully.....

Travel news: Today was Shabbat and a day of rest from competition, so we took the opportunity to go to Masada and the Dead Sea - an unbelievable day for sure. Both were so completely different and worlds apart, yet only about 7 miles from each other. From Tel Aviv it was a bit of a schlepp, 2 hours with a pit stop for a potty break and snacks, where we sampled a Druse dish from the roadside stand - a very large tortilla-like outer layer, larger even then a crepe, spread with goat cheese and tebouli. She readied the dough with her hands like a pizza maker then formed it on a round seat cushion like thing. We cut it into fours to share as a lite snack. So many interesting foods from a wide range of areas around the world - wherever Jews came from in the Diaspora they brought their foods with them to share!

Climbed Masada. Snuck out to hike with some 20-somethings in our tour group before they put the 'closed' sign up on the gate. They said it was too hot to walk. It was a bit toasty, around 107 (but a dry heat - hah!!), and close to noon, but heck, it was MASADA! And the heat didn't stop King Herod, the rebel Jews, or the Romans, so it wasn't going to stop me.

Greg and Bex took the cable car with the others, and because they waited for the cable car while we climbed, we didn't miss the guided tour up top. I can't remember ever being so red (so they tell me)or having sweat drip down my body head to toe like it did today.

Speaking of dripping water, to hear the explanation of how the Jews of Masada organized their water capture-system with channels and cisterns was ingenious.

Took the cable car down - sign said for 80 people, but who follows signs? Nothing like a cable car packed front to back with sweaty tourists worrying about whether we were over the weight limit or not. Maybe prayers are heard more easily from Israel, as we made it down safely.

Then off to the Dead Sea. The view as we approached is magnificent. The mountains of Jordan reflected in the sea, salt hills looking like waves in the water peaked up from the baby blue lake rimmed with salt crystals. And emerging from a whole lot of desert were hotels and a spa, ready to accept us for a typical Mid-Eastern lunch and a visit to the sea. Checked out towels, got mud, walked out to the sea, where showers and pool chairs in the shade awaited us. Coated mud on us, took pics, then waded into the sea. OUCH! It was hot, really! And Bex had a cut on her toes, so that was the end of her entry into the sea. A quick dab of the finger to the tongue tells you why - it's so full of salt and minerals it stings. No splashing allowed! Bex took more pics while Greg and I floated in the sea. It is a very eerie, magical experience, having your legs taken away from you by the bouyancy, and then floating as on any pool floatation device. And wow, did it feel silky good.




We slept the 2 hours back to the hotel, and are now readying ourselves for our beachside bbq with the Maccabiah teammates and supporters.

So proud of our Rachel. Can't tell you how proud we are! Best of luck to Greg and Rach in the individuals next week.

L'hitraot,
The Schermans

The Competition Begins

Greetings from Tel Aviv and Maccabiah central!!

From the athletes' perspective - Today was the first day of competition after an amazing Opening Ceremony last night, which was a test of endurance in itself. Athletes left the hotel at 4:30 PM and did not return until 1 AM! It was very well worth every minute as 65 countries and close to 8,000 athletes mingled and then marched into Ramat Gan stadium for the ceremony. Jason Lezak was the final torchbearer and lit the "eternal" flame - Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu proclaimed the start of the games with a motivating speech. President Shimon Peres also spoke along with many other dignitaries, singers, dancers and performers.

From the bleachers - Buses left hotels at 6pm to brave the pre-Maccabiah traffic and to arrive at our seats an hour early. Bex has made many friends during our trip, and spent time joking and talking w/ adults and kids alike while we awaited the start of the ceremony. We learned how to blow up our bam-bams and Bex revelled in thwacking them together at every opportunity while I plugged my ears. The highlights for us were spotting Rachel and Greg amongst the 800 or so American athletes on the field, and then having them spot us! We hadn't seen Rachel in weeks so it was a very happy moment. More highlights included the singing of Hatikvah in the stadium. Wow. And then seeing all the other countries represented - Sweden, India were amongst my personal surprises as far as who knew there were Jews there?! Another highlight was successfully ordering a coke in Hebrew and then somehow finding our bus amongst the myriad post-ceremonies, not an easy feat with the outpouring of spectators from the stands.

An amazing experience had by all, athletes and spectators alike.

Onto the competition - where the touring halts and spectatorship takes the front seat. Bex and I spent all day with Rachel at Hertzilya, a short cab ride from our Tel Aviv hotel. Rachel had 2 matches, the first she won and second, to the #1 Israeli, she lost. The girls are playing a round robin-like rotation, w/ only 12 participants, 6 from the US, 1 from GB and the rest Israeli, this being the first time for Jr. Girls. The boys have more countries participating, and the vibe at the dedicated squash club is humming with teenage harmones and healthy competition. The Jr. Coach has a hands-off approach, and I missed having Greg available for Rach, although you know me, an opportunity to give TLC and advice is never unwanted!

Bex is amazing - no matter what the day has entailed for her, sleep-deprived she gathers her strength and forges on, be it fun or challenging, boring (like all day at the club when the pool beckoned) or unknown. I am not sure how much more squash we will be watching - may catch Greg's afternoon match today and a few of the medal matches later on. We have one more organized tour to Masada/Dead Sea on Saturday and a sprinkling of organized meals, all of which have been fantastic, right up our alley of enjoyable foods - lamb, cucumber, tomato salad, hummous, olives and pita, other combos of cold salads, smoked fish, and fresh fruit.

We will try to 'spring' Rachel from her group a few nights and maybe a day so that she can see more of us and Tel Aviv outside of the club and her hotel. She misses us terribly, and we her, and there aren't any plans for the Juniors other than competition.

She is playing well. The Israeli coach expressed her appreciation of Rachel's positive attitude on and off court and her smart play on court. I am very proud of Rachel as an athlete and teenager.

Greg's Competition update: USA Masters team beats the "mutt" team of Brazil/Argentina/Poland - 3-0 in the morning. Afternoon match was against Australia and USA wins 3-0!! Greg had the match of the day at the Ranana Squash Center playing number 1 for the team and finishing the #1 Aussie off 3-1, with an 18-16 win in the 4th game. Tomorrow is Great Britain in the morning and Israel's A team in the afternoon......should be a humdinger of a day!!

Jerusalem!!

After a long flight filled with other Maccabiah participants, we arrived in Tel Aviv. We zipped through Passport Control, baggage claim and onto a bus to Jersualem to our David Citadel Hotel - a magnificent historic building just outside the old walled city. We checked in at the Maccabiah Mission desk, received our credentials and quickly changed and walked to the Western Wall to meet the rest of the group. We later discovered they went to the Southern Wall, but no matter - it was just before Shabbbat and very lively indeed. This was followed by a spectacular dinner back at the hotel and several moving speeches.

We have met many families and athletes from all over the USA - instant friends as we are all sharing the common experience of the Maccabiah Mission.

Yesterday we toured the old city and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre where the biblical lines are blurred with historical truth. Very powerful indeed. We ate lunch at Karma in Ein Karem where we had delicious focacio and then Greg went to train with another team member at the very old squash courts at the YMCA just down the road from the hotel. A quick shower led to a Bar/Bat Mitzvah service at a location overlooking the walled city - Rabbi Irwin Kula absolutely rocked the group with his humor and meaningful thoughts about the moment - Greg and Susanne both joyfully participated.

Bex has been a real trooper, dealing with whatever tour experience comes her way. We had a few hours yesterday to enjoy the very lively and wonderfully refreshing pool while Greg trained. She made some friends from Los Angeles while I lounged and enjoyed the scene.

Quite a mix of old and new architecture and traditions. Enjoyed the light show last nite at the Tower of David and then walked through an outdoor mall back to our hotel - amazing to experience the Old City come alive after Shabbat.

Today is a big day w/ both an AM and PM tour. Every day is better than the next.
Shalom!